Rene et Vincent Dauvissat-Camus - Chablis 1er Cru La Forest 2022 (Pre-arrival) (750ml)
Price: $205.00
| Producer | Rene et Vincent Dauvissat-Camus |
| Country | France |
| Region | Burgundy |
| Subregion | Chablis |
| Varietal | Chardonnay |
| Vintage | 2022 |
| Sku | 8302 |
| Size | 750ml |
Wine Advocate: 93-96 Points
A brilliant wine in the making Dauvissat's 2022 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest unfurls in the glass with youthfully reductive scents of citrus oil crisp stone fruit white flowers oyster shell and subtle hints of orange blossom. Medium to full-bodied satiny and incisive with superb depth at the core and an electric finish this cuvée has navigated the vintage's extremes with ease. Vincent Dauvissat?who forsook a career as a shepherd to become one of France's most celebrated vignerons?is technically retired but in reality remains very much a continuing presence at his eponymous domaine and it was with him that I tasted the 2022s from barrel along with a selection of 2021s. Spring frost in 2022 unlike in 2021 was followed immediately by warm weather so the secondary buds flourished and delivered an ample homogenous crop. As I wrote last year there's no grower in the region who has done a better job of retaining all of Chablis's classical signatures in the warmer sunnier vintages of the last decade and this is once again true of 2022 which retains the tension and salinity one seeks at this address in a vintage where many others have produced extremely fruit-driven soft wines. If 2022 represents a success in Chablis's new paradigm 2021 is a throwback with higher acidity and a more reductive profile. "We picked just before gray rot began but botrytis was rampant which is why the wines have lost their green highlights this year" Vincent observed. Yet despite that at this early stage the 2021s are less aromatically exotic than either 2013 or 2016 at the same point in time and seem set for a graceful evolution: readers might want to think of them as a somewhat fleshier more generous version of the 2007 vintage at this address. Readers will remember that farming here is organic but without certification. The harvest is by hand and the wines ferment in tank before racking to barrel with the lees (Raveneau's Chablis by contrast are racked to barrel more or less without their lees) spending a second winter in wood before bottling. A first bottling destined for the American market sees a light filtration while a second bottling?some of which is sealed with wax some of which sees a foil capsule?takes place a little later in the year without filtration. Published: Sep 07 2023
Decanter: 93 Points
Plenty of sweetness to the fruit helped by the southwest exposure of the site. The vines lie on colder soils which Vincent explains warm up rapidly. Different colours of clay are found here. Should develop very nicely in bottle. (Drink between 2025-2030)
Burghound: 91-94 Points
There is ample citrus influence suffusing the nose that could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its array of seashore algae and oyster shell scents. The caressing but notably denser and more powerful larger-bodied flavors coat the palate while retaining an attractive texture on the strikingly persistent finish that is shaped by bright acidity. This can't match the MdT for refinement but it is presently more complex and should age just as well. (Drink starting 2032)
Vinous: 92-94 Points
The 2022 Chablis Fôrets 1er Cru taken from a feuillette has a detailed dried honey and sous-bois-tinged bouquet gaining delineation as it opens in the glass. The palate is quite citric on the entry with fine tension plenty of energy and a tightly wound and precise finish. Wonderfully focused this Premier Cru conveys elegance and grace. (Drink between 2030-2050)
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